Abuse of Empire style robe to thermal insulation and body discomfort

Title
Abuse of Empire style robe to thermal insulation and body discomfort
Authors
나영주
Keywords
Clothing insulation, Empire style robe, Thermal manikin
Issue Date
2015-08
Publisher
INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CLOTHING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY
Series/Report no.
INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CLOTHING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY ; Vol27 no.4 Startpage 587 Endpage 599
Abstract
Purpose – Empire style fashion, Greek-Roman style robe with bare shoulder and chest and short sleeved with long gloves which created a slim silhouette, was worn even in winter season in Europe, where average temperature is 0-5°C. Most women suffered with catching cold and thousands caught flu and tuberculosis of the lungs, called muslin disease. The purpose of this paper is to find out clothing insulation of the robe by measuring the thermal resistance and to guess how cold they felt in this robe in winter time. Design/methodology/approach – The authors performed the investigation on original robe shape with based on historical evidence and data, such as drawings, sketches, pattern books and sewing books, and reproduced a representative robe costume and tested its thermal insulation. The fabrics of robe were thin wool, silk and cotton following the literature evidence and preserved costume. Thermal insulation of the robes was measured using thermal manikin with the test method ISO 15831. The authors analyzed the thermal insulation of reconstructed robes with an inner cotton breech as for daily use and tested them wrapped with cashmere shawl on manikin shoulder as for severe cold weather. Findings – The dress robes had the range of 0.61-0.67 clo regardless of the type of fabric materials, and 0.80-0.81 clo with the cashmere shawl. These values were not enough for women to keep body temperature or comfort in winter time. Originality/value – This study combined fashion historic theory for costume reproduction with clothing science and technology for thermal insulation. Combination of costume history, construction technology and measurement engineering is the ingenious idea, and the combination of historical and scientific research evidences interdisciplinary originality.
URI
https://www.emeraldinsight.com/doi/full/10.1108/IJCST-01-2014-0006
http://dspace.inha.ac.kr/handle/10505/54871
ISSN
0955-6222
Appears in Collections:
School of Arts & Sports(예술체육학부) > Fashion Design & Textiles (의류디자인학) > Journal Papers, Reports(의류디자인학 논문, 보고서)
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